Review: Not Your Basic T-Shirt McCalls 6797

Often times I have to get out of my box of simple style and symmetrical silhouettes.  It seems that when a garment is not even or symmetrical on both sides for me, I have a hard time feeling comfortable.  Another, fashion trend that is new for me is to use large print graphics.  However, after reading my regular blog roll, I was so inspired by the top Cennetta over at Mahogany Stylist shared with us.  Graphic prints!  Ok, I might be able to do this.

 Graphic Tee- sewtofit.com

I found what I was looking for when I came upon the stash that Natasha at Sew Crafty Chemist shared.  This top was a true inspiration item, brought on as I continued to scour the net looking for ideas for a garment I would be comfortable with, and a graphic print fabric which I could get excited about and actually be able to wear considering my tendency towards humdrum prints and solids.

Sew Crafty shared this print she had gotten via mail order.  I wanted that print, but I hate mail order fabrics, I like to “touch” the fabrics I purchase.  Is anyone else like that?  However, SMFabrics Online store is here in Houston, so when I have the urge to touch, I can set an appointment to visit the warehouse.  The best of both worlds.

I found this particular fabric at Fabric Depot, while on a trip in July.  I couldn’t wait to get back home to sew up something, anything!  But, I had to lay this fabric out and admire its graphic, and allow it to “speak” to me and tell me what it wanted to become.

It just seemed right, to use McCalls 6797, like a match made in fabric heaven.   My fabrics speak to me all the time, however, sometimes I just don’t listen and end up with duds. Wouldn’t you say your fabrics talk to you?

Pattern Details/Review:

M6797

Line Art
Not much to it.  Pullover tops (loose-fitting through bust) have neck band, front/back extending into right sleeve forming drape, shaped hemline and narrow hem. A: armhole band.

Let’s talk about the sleeve and armhole- The sleeveless side is GREAT!  I love the way it hugs the body and curves right in under the arm.  Now the other side, not so much.  It just showed too much when the arm is raised. So here, I sewed up the edge about 6″inches, thus, creating a type of pocket under the arm.  Problem solved. 

No alterations were made, although a 1″ FBA would have been useful in order to avoid crawling of the front towards the sleeved side.  I should have also widened the bottom opening a little so it would drape more freely over my hips.  I cut a straight Medium.

I tried it with the sleeve as well, but I wasn’t happy.

The final verdict…I will definitely make another.  Just have to wait for another “wow” fabric.

Sew, until next time….
Andrea

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Review: McCall’s 6760- Romper Room

Jumpsuits seem to be as easy to wear as a dress. Basically the top and bottom are already matched. Just throw it on and you are good to go.  With the exception of the occasional visit by “nature,” rompers, the short version of the jumpsuit gives you just as much versatility as a dress.  Wear it as a short set with flats or wedges or pair it with heels for a date.  You can even pair it with a jacket and change the look altogether.

Romper

I find it hard sometimes to pair tops to bottoms, which might explain why I tend to enjoy dresses much more readily than any other ensemble.  To remedy this conundrum I decided to make myself a “romper” from my days of youth.  I chose McCalls 6760 jumpsuit view and shortened it to get the romper.  There was an option to make it as a dress as well.  

Wearing heels with shorts is not something I normally feel comfortable doing, but for some reason this romper actually “feels” like a dress, and thus, it just naturally goes better with heels for me this time.  Maybe, its the dressy style of the bodice that does the trick.  

The waist yoke is very comfortable and makes it feel as though I have on a belt.  Because of the slim fit, the pattern has the 14″ back zipper all the way up to and through the yoke.  Now I would not normally place a zipper in the “back” of a jumpsuit, however, in this case the opening is low enough to reach around for use when the need arises.

The shoulder ties are functional, and are run through a channel which was created by sewing running stitches 3/8″ on either side of the should seam.  They needed to be knotted tightly in order to keep them secure.  The fit of the bodice has to be the correct length to keep the shoulders in place, otherwise, they would slip off rather easily.  So be certain you measure accurately before the final attachment to the yoke portion of the jumpsuit, because that is the only place to adjust the bodice length after the shoulder seams are complete.

There is no underarm side seam because the front and back bodice pieces overlap to create the side closure.  This area is really low if you don’t check the placement of the overlap.  After making sure it was set correctly for my level of comfort, I then hand tacked it in place to avoid any wardrobe malfunctions.  For the more risky dresser, you go right ahead and leave that bad boy open.  It makes for a really sexy glimpse of the future. (Wink, wink)  Not for me though.

I also paired this with a blazer for when I wanted to be a little more casual, and wear it during the day to take some of the “sexiness” away.  Looks awesome!

Other details:  Lined dress or wide-legged jumpsuit has drawstring on shoulders, semi-fitted, gathered bodice overlapping slightly to side back (no side seams), midriff, side pockets, invisible back zipper and narrow hem.

Alterations: 

  • Made the inseam 3.5″
  • 1.5″ FBA
  • Left off the pockets
  • Tacked down the front and side overlaps
All-in-all this is a great pattern for me, because it has some shaping to it that I like at the waist, and still has the option to make it any length as a jumpsuit, romper or dress. 
Enjoy…

Vogue 1265- That Little Black “Party Dress”

There is that one dress that I would wear for any event, and maybe just to feel good. I have now moved it to the front of my wardrobe.  I wore it for my 50th birthday party,  a masquerade bash my daughter and sister master-minded while I was out of town on a Palmer-Pletsch Training in Portland, Oregon (more on that in another post).

The two of them called me to inform me that I needed a dress just a few days later for a “special engagement party and dinner” for my son who is getting married.  It was known by me that the engagement party was fast approaching, however, I had no knowledge of the whereabouts and details of the dinner.  So, when they continued to ask for names for invites and such, I didn’t put two and two together, since my birthday had already passed the week prior.  I had already resolved that I wouldn’t be having a birthday party because of my traveling schedule and all else which was going on in my life.  You see, right before I left town, some jerks robbed my house!!!!  So, partying was the last thing on my mind.  But I abliged and set out to get a dress made while out of town.
Since, I was at a fitting workshop, it just seemed right to use this pattern for my fit lessons.  Just so you know, after the first day of lessons using the required McCalls/Palmer-Pletsch patterns, we were free to use “any” fashion pattern of our choosing.  In my case it was this Pamella Roland design for Vogue #1265.



The description says:  Loose-Fitting, partially interfaced, lined, pullover dress (fitted through bust) has collar, collar band, side front, side back seams, front hemline slit, flared, pleated lower back, invisible side zipper and cap sleeves with bias armhole binding.  “Whew!!!”  That’s a lot of details!!!!
Let me just go over some of these beautiful details the pattern has to offer, and offered up exquisitely, might I add.  All the details made for a lovely dress indeed!!

V1265

Loose-Fitting- I would say so for the bottom half of the dress.  It offered up just enough room to dance, and move, yet still gave that beautiful sheath look from the front, and just skimmed over the waistline to look fitted, yet room enough to breath.

Partially interfaced- The entire front is interfaced with fusible.  I used the Palmer-Pletsch brand “PerfectFuse Light” which is for underlining fabric or fusing to textured fabrics. It worked like a dream.  It comes in 3 yard packs for right at $7.50 per yard of 60” width. (It is on sale right now for $19.00)
Fabric and lining- The fabric is the nicest linen, cotton, rayon.  It has raised dots with a fine thread of gold going through it.  I wouldn’t call it a pique because of the underside being flat.  For the lining, I used a luxurious 100% Bemberg rayon lining from Fabric Depot in Portland, as part of their “ambiance collection”.  Feels so beautiful on the skin.  Becky of Beccabeck Stuff, recommended it highly.  So, when I got to Portland, that was the first thing I looked for.

Pullover fitted through bust-  Yes, Yes and Yessss!!! The fit through the bust is awesome.  I was worried about the neckline, so I sewed it up two inches for modesty.  I don’t know your definition of modesty, but mine was tested to its limit in this dress.  However, when I got to moving around during the night, I never dealt with any wardrobe malfunctions or peek-a-boo bust. 

Alterations I made:  For this size 14:  I did a 1 3/4” full bust adjustment, 1/2” broad back, cut off 2 inches from the hem, gave myself 1/2” on the sleeve width (should have done 1.5”).   Did a 3/8” sway back adjustment, and made the center back seam curve in to my back by 1” at the waist.

 Collar, collar band- are wonderful details.  The collar stand is actually a wedge shape that causes the collar to lift at the back, giving it that 1980s stand-up feel.  I love how it doesn’t just lie flat at the back.

Side front, side back seams and “FRENCH Dart”-  Love, Love, love and love this feature.  Because of the drastic transition to from my waist to bust, these details made for easy fitting.  I curved the dart at the bust as suggested by Marta Alto, with Palmer-Pletsch.  It is recommended for full bust to curve the dart “around” just a tad when approaching the prominent part of the bust.  I curved mine slightly further for visual affect.  It turned out great.

Front hemline slit- At first I was going to leave that closed, however, after looking at it, it just did not look good, and it cause the dress to pull forward.  I didn’t think it would matter since the flounce in the back had the walking room needed.  But the skirt is very straight, so it still needed a little slit.


Flared, pleated lower back-  Can I just say, this is the best feature of all.  I felt like a princess with my almost double full circle inset hanging of the back.  It didn’t weigh the dress down or cause it to drag.  The length is longer than the front just enough to make it almost feel like I have a tea-length dress on, yet the front feels like I have a sheath dress.  The flounce has 4 very large double pleats to give it the volume it needs yet still fit into the back curved seam right under the buttocks.

Invisible side zipper, cap sleeve with bias binding- The zipper up the side is my favorite detail in any dress.  It just makes since.  I thought about putting the zipper up the front, but choose to stick to the beautiful planned detailing of the pattern.  It seems the dress had enough going already.  The cap sleeve is just that, a cap, and it doesn’t leave much room for above shoulder arm movement.  So, get your hair and face taken care of before you put it on.  The lining is sewn unfinished up to the sleeve and then the binding finishes it all off.

This dress would be great in anyone’s wardrobe arsenal. One thing that would make it right for absolutely any occasion, is to just redo the roll line on the collar so that it will close higher in the front.  Other than that, this is an absolute terrific dress.

And I would be remiss not to share this parting shot.

THE END.
Until next time.  Enjoy.